#Fishkeeping

20 posts loaded — scroll for more

Text
glassboxdiaries
glassboxdiaries

Here’s a quick update on my filterless, heaterless Bloody Mary Neocaridina shrimp bowl, which is 156 days old.

The bowl uses Fluval Stratum aquasoil as the substrate, along with a small piece of corbo catfish wood and two small rocks for the hardscape.

For lighting, I originally used a 20-watt Sansi grow light, but it was to be far too powerful for this setup.

I’ve since switched to two small houseplant grow lights for the time being, although I’ll probably move to a 10-watt Sansi puck light once I find a permanent rack for this bowl.

Here’s the full plant list for the bowl, and thankfully, none of these plants struggled during the winter months when the room temperature dropped to around 18°C, or 64°F.

As we move into the spring months, temperatures are starting to rise, so plant growth should begin to increase, and the Neocaridina shrimp should breed more frequently.

The Rotala rotundifolia in the back left of the bowl is the key plant for this setup, as it’s the main source of water purification. It helps remove toxins from the water and keeps the shrimp colony safe.

The rest of the plants are mostly decorative and grow too slowly to provide any real water-purifying benefits.

When it comes to feeding, I’m currently adding a single Fluval Bug Bites Green Label granule three times per week, as the shrimp colony is still very small.

That said, the majority of their diet comes from the algae and biofilm that naturally grows in the bowl and overfeeding can easily cause water parameter issues in a setup like this, so it’s always best to keep feeding light and play it safe.

Text
glassboxdiaries
glassboxdiaries

Filterless Neocaridina Shrimp Bowl Update! Easy Planted Bloody Mary Shrimp Bowl!

Here’s a quick update on my filterless, heaterless Bloody Mary Neocaridina shrimp bowl, which is now 156 days old. This simple planted setup shows how shrimp tanks can thrive with very minimal equipment when natural processes are allowed to do most of the work.

The bowl uses Fluval Stratum aquasoil as the substrate, which helps support plant growth and provides a good surface for beneficial microorganisms. For hardscape, I added a small piece of Corbo catfish wood along with two small rocks to create a natural look and additional surfaces for algae and biofilm to grow on.

Lighting took a bit of experimenting. I originally used a 20-watt Sansi grow light, but it turned out to be far too powerful for a small bowl like this and encouraged too much growth. I’ve since switched to two small houseplant grow lights, which provide a much gentler level of lighting for the plants. Eventually I’ll likely move to a 10-watt Sansi puck light once I set up a permanent rack for this bowl.

Thankfully, none of the plants struggled during the winter months when the room temperature dropped to around 18°C (64°F). Because this setup runs without a heater, stable room temperature is important.

As we move into spring, temperatures are starting to rise again. That should encourage faster plant growth and hopefully lead to more frequent shrimp breeding in the colony.

The Rotala rotundifolia growing in the back left corner is the key plant in this setup. It’s the main plant helping with natural water purification, absorbing nutrients and helping keep the environment stable for the shrimp. The rest of the plants are mostly decorative and grow more slowly, so they don’t contribute as much to filtration.

For feeding, I’m currently adding one Fluval Bug Bites Green Label granule three times per week since the shrimp colony is still quite small.

Most of their diet actually comes from the algae and biofilm that naturally grows throughout the bowl. In small ecosystems like this, overfeeding can quickly cause water quality problems, so it’s always best to feed lightly and let nature provide the rest.

Natural planted ecosystems like this are one of my favourite ways to keep shrimp. 🌱🦐

Text
glassboxdiaries
glassboxdiaries

5 Fluval Stratum Planting Tips For A Thriving Planted Tank When Using Aquasoil!

Struggling to plant into Fluval Stratum without your plants floating away? You’re not alone. Because Fluval Stratum is much lighter than many other aquasoils, it can sometimes be tricky to plant into, especially if you’re new to using it. In this video I share a few simple tips and tricks that make planting into Stratum much easier and help keep your plants securely in place.

The first thing I recommend is ignoring the shallow substrate depth often suggested on the bag. Adding around 5 cm (about 2 inches) of Fluval Stratum to your tank creates a deeper planting layer, which makes it far easier for roots to grip the substrate. A slightly deeper substrate also gives plants more stability while they establish themselves.

Next, add a small amount of water before you start planting. Filling the tank with roughly 2.5 cm (about 1 inch) of water keeps the aquasoil submerged and helps stop the substrate from shifting around while you work. This simple step makes the planting process much smoother.

Another helpful trick is to break plants down into the smallest possible pieces without damaging them. Most potted aquarium plants actually contain multiple individual plants. Separating them into individual plantlets allows the aquasoil to hold them more effectively and helps them root faster once planted.

For species that come with large root systems, such as Echinodorus (Amazon swords), I usually trim the roots down to around 5 cm (about 2 inches). This makes the plants easier to position in the substrate and I’ve never had any issues with healthy regrowth after trimming.

Using a pair of affordable planting tweezers also makes a huge difference. While you can plant using your fingers, tweezers allow you to place plants deeper and more precisely. I still use an entry-level set that costs around $10 and they work perfectly well for all my planted tanks.

Finally, when you remove your tweezers from the substrate, gently open and close them as you pull them out. This lets the Stratum fall back in around the roots and helps lock the plant securely into place.

I used this exact process almost 50 times when setting up this tank, and none of the plants floated when I filled it with water. It’s a simple method that has worked reliably across many of my planted aquariums.

If you keep planted tanks, these small planting techniques can save you a lot of frustration and help your aquascape stay exactly where you want it. 🌱🐟

Text
dreamsb0u
dreamsb0u

how it feels when i need to trim my aquatic plants

Text
2139062325
2139062325

@iricaaa 75G na sa sunod ano? Hahaha.

Text
zumi-zone
zumi-zone

So to bring everyone up to speed: Ena molted a while back and then molted AGAIN (on feb 23rd which is ENA day no less… she decided to get naked on her namesake’s day lmao. What an icon!) and now she is huge.

And not only that but she very suddenly has become absolutely OBSESSED with digging at the tank sealant silicone in one corner and I literally cannot do ANYTHING to redirect her from this, so I tried plopping her ceramic cubes in the corner and she moved them out of the way with little issue.

This morning I got sick of it and put a magnetic scraper in the corner and she had a full on menty-b about it:

So tonight I decided ok, she really needs some more enrichment in her tank bc she cannot be doing this. So I finally made myself boil one of the driftwood pieces I have had laying around for her. Made my whole apartment smell like steamed firewood for 3 hours just bc I love her so much (and also dont want her causing a tank leak and water damage to my fucking apartment)

She was rly excited when I showed it to her 💖

Text
delicatefighters-bettafish
delicatefighters-bettafish

Tiny introduction post. I used to keep and aquarium as a teenager and after getting Uber duper depressed, I dismantled my last tank following my last bettas death of old age.

I’m now 25 and at the encouragement of my social worker and therapist I’m preparing to get a couple tanks back up and running. I’m still a good couple months off from having the stuff ready to go so won’t be posting a lot at first, but I love hobby blogging so… yeah! More to come. Exciting.

Text
glassboxdiaries
glassboxdiaries

Tips For Growing Thriving Christmas Moss In A Low-Tech Planted Tank!

My Full Christmas Moss Care Guide - https://glassboxdiaries.com/plant/vesicularia-montagnei-christmas-moss/

I get asked all the time how my Christmas Moss looks so full, thick, and vibrant — and I wish I had some secret trick or magic fertilizer to share. But honestly? It really comes down to two simple things: time and optimal water parameters.

This tank is almost two years old, and I’ve never trimmed the Christmas Moss attached to the driftwood in the center. I simply let it grow in naturally and mature at its own pace. No constant reshaping. No aggressive trimming. Just patience.

One of the biggest factors is my water. My tap water is naturally soft with a lower pH, which happens to be ideal for Christmas Moss. This plant belongs to the Vesicularia genus, and mosses in this group typically prefer moderate lighting and softer, slightly acidic water.

That’s very different from many of the “easy” mosses in the hobby, like those from the Taxiphyllum genus. Those tend to be much more forgiving and can handle lower light and even harder water without much trouble. Christmas Moss can grow in harder water and lower-intensity lighting, but it’s often slower and more temperamental.

Even in my low-tech setup — no CO₂ injection, no high-tech equipment — it still took a long time to develop that thick, layered, tree-like structure. Moss doesn’t explode with growth overnight. It slowly builds density over months… and really over years.

So if you’re struggling to get that lush, cascading Christmas Moss look, focus less on shortcuts and more on stability. Keep your parameters consistent, aim for softer water if possible, provide moderate light, and most importantly — give it time.

More than anything, I truly believe the “secret” to beautiful moss isn’t a product… it’s the age and maturity of the tank.

Text
yelltochek
yelltochek

Back to pink! My water lilies are finally back to their former size. We moved in October, and afterward, the water lilies dropped their leaves due to the new water. Now they’ve fully recovered and are glowing with vibrant pink colors once again!

Text
glassboxdiaries
glassboxdiaries

Rare Aquarium Plants Available In The UK For Your Planted Tanks!

Finding rare aquarium plants in the UK can honestly feel impossible—especially if you’re trying to keep things low-tech without high CO₂ or intense lighting.

Recently, I came across a thread on the UKAPS forum about a newer rare aquatic plant seller called Cloud Aqua (https://cloudaqua.co.uk/
). Since aquarium plants are such a huge part of the hobby for me, I decided to test them out for myself. This was completely unsponsored—I ordered Rotala Blood Red SG with my own money to see what the experience was actually like.

The plant arrived the very next day in a small, protective box. Each stem was roughly 15 cm (around 6 inches) long, which is a solid size for planting straight into a scape. One thing I did notice is that the label on the bag simply said “Rotala Blood Red” without the SG suffix, so I’m really hoping this is the true SG variant. Time will tell once it settles in and starts growing.

What I really appreciate about Cloud Aqua is that they don’t just copy and paste generic plant descriptions from overseas nurseries. Instead, they include their own growing experience, along with PAR guidance and CO₂ recommendations. That’s incredibly helpful—especially if you’re running a low-tech or modified Walstad-style setup and want realistic expectations about colour and growth.

Shipping speed is another big plus. Ordering one day and receiving it the next confirms the plants are already in the UK and have cleared customs. No long international delays. No guessing.

I’ve seen a few UKAPS comments mentioning that some portions can be small depending on the listing, but at least you’re actually getting access to plants that have been very hard to source here.

Overall, this feels like a positive shift for the UK planted tank hobby. More availability, more variety, and hopefully more rare plants becoming accessible. I’ll definitely be placing another order soon 🌿

Text
nerdby
nerdby

I saw a picture of some goldfish in an aquarium made from an old Apple PC and I am so stressed out right now because it was definitely not big enough for those goldfish. Like goldfish on average get to be 10-14 inches, and a fully grown adult goldfish needs a hundred gallon tank. If you keep them in tiny bowls the fish will get stunted and eventually die from stress or ammonia poisoning. Whichever comes first.

I used to keep betta fish and also learned a lot about keeping goldfish as well.

Text
compositionrmknight
compositionrmknight

Water change day.

Text
pureluxylife
pureluxylife

Carnivore Food for Fish: Feeding Guide for Predatory Species

Running a predator tank and spent a lot of time figuring out optimal nutrition for carnivorous species. Found a thorough guide on [carnivore food for fish](https://pureluxy.com/carnivore-food-for-fish/) that goes beyond the usual “just feed them pellets” advice.

**What the guide covers:**
- Live vs. frozen vs. freeze-dried — nutritional differences and parasite risks
- Species-specific needs: arowana, oscar, cichlids, etc.
- Feeding frequency by species size and metabolism
- Avoiding obesity in captive predators — a real and overlooked issue
- Gut-loading live feeders to improve nutritional value

The section on supplementing with vitamins for fish that only accept frozen food was particularly useful.

What carnivorous fish do you keep and what’s your feeding routine?

Text
pureluxylife
pureluxylife

Carnivore Food for Fish: Feeding Guide for Predatory Species

Running a predator tank and spent a lot of time figuring out optimal nutrition for carnivorous species. Found a thorough guide on [carnivore food for fish](https://pureluxy.com/carnivore-food-for-fish/) that goes beyond the usual “just feed them pellets” advice.

**What the guide covers:**
- Live vs. frozen vs. freeze-dried — nutritional differences and parasite risks
- Species-specific needs: arowana, oscar, cichlids, etc.
- Feeding frequency by species size and metabolism
- Avoiding obesity in captive predators — a real and overlooked issue
- Gut-loading live feeders to improve nutritional value

The section on supplementing with vitamins for fish that only accept frozen food was particularly useful.

What carnivorous fish do you keep and what’s your feeding routine?

Text
glassboxdiaries
glassboxdiaries

A Quick Update On My Albino Pygmy Corydoras!

This is my nano community aquarium, home to 10 ember tetras, 10 pygmy corydoras, and a small colony of shrimp. It’s a peaceful, planted setup where there’s always something interesting happening if you take the time to observe it closely.

Most days, I regularly see the eight standard pygmy corydoras shoaling together, swimming in synchrony and exploring the tank as a tight group. But the two albino ones have always been different. They’re far more elusive, and it’s rare that I see both of them at the same time. In fact, it had been months since I last spotted them together, and I’d started to wonder if one of them had died without me realising.

Then a couple of days ago, as I walked past the tank, I was genuinely surprised to see both albino corydoras out in the open together. It was reassuring to confirm that they’re both still alive and healthy. Moments like this remind me how important it is to slow down and really watch your aquarium, because fish don’t always behave the way you expect.

What’s even more interesting is that they don’t shoal with the other pygmy corydoras. This made me curious, since fish usually recognise their own species by scent rather than appearance. After doing some research, I now suspect the albino ones may actually be a different but closely related species, which would explain why they don’t group together.

If that’s the case, I’ll be on the lookout for more of the albino variety so they can form their own shoal. Corydoras are social fish, and seeing them interact naturally is one of the most rewarding parts of fishkeeping.

Text
rhysrewind
rhysrewind

My Babies

First post on Tumblr is so weird i feel late to the party, anyway this is my Pea Puffer tank.

Text
violetful
violetful

betta or dwarf cichlid for the new 20 gal…… decisions decisions

Text
topperflop
topperflop

it always frustrates me when people say “it’s better than a cup!” in response to a chain pet store betta being housed in a 1gal with plastic plants and no heater (or similarly below the bare minimum requirements for betta care)

it’s like, okay. would you rather live in a porta potty with poisonous gas, freezing air, and nothing to do but shit and eat over your shit. or live in a half bathroom that may or may not also have poisonous gas, is probably also freezing, and has extremely sharp decorations on the walls, sink, toilet: so you’re always at risk of slicing your skin off

they’re both shitty and unacceptable habitats and nobody should be coddled for “saving” a betta when they’re just putting it in another version of its previous torture chamber

Text
glassboxdiaries
glassboxdiaries

Kit Tanks Vs DIY Aquariums: Which Is Better For Beginners?

My dedicated kit tank vs DIY tank comparison article - https://glassboxdiaries.com/kit-tanks-vs-diy-aquariums/

Kit tanks might seem like the easiest and cheapest way to start in the aquarium hobby, but in many cases, they actually cost more in the long run. A kit tank is an all-in-one setup that includes the aquarium, light, filter, and sometimes a heater. Everything is designed to work together, which makes the initial setup simple and beginner-friendly. You can fill it, plug it in, and get started quickly.

But the biggest problem with kit tanks is that they’re designed for basic setups, not long-term flexibility. The included lights are usually fine for low-maintenance plants like Anubias or Java Fern, but they often lack the intensity needed for better growth or more demanding species. The filters are another common limitation. Most kit tanks include small internal filters that work at first but offer limited performance, limited media space, and very little customization.

I’ve personally used multiple kit tanks, and within six months, I had replaced every single piece of equipment because it didn’t meet my goals anymore. That means I paid for the original equipment and then paid again for upgrades.

Another major issue is adjustability. Preset heaters may not reach the ideal temperature for certain fish, and filters may be too strong for shrimp or too weak for heavily stocked tanks. This forces you to choose your fish and plants based on the equipment, instead of choosing equipment based on what you actually want to keep.

DIY tanks solve this problem completely. By choosing each component yourself, you can select reliable, properly sized equipment that supports your goals from day one. This gives you better performance, better plant growth, healthier fish, and more flexibility as your experience grows.

Kit tanks are easier at first, but DIY tanks almost always offer better long-term value, better results, and a much better overall experience in the hobby.

Text
boombaabomb
boombaabomb

2 days before surgery 15/02/26

Kinda a good day today no seizures

I’ve got a bed at the hospital tomorrow so I’ll stay overnight then I’m ready for morning surgery

Had to put Bruce to sleep he wasn’t wasn’t doing so good. I’ve emptied the tank and took the gravel out I’ll do a deep clean when I’m a bit better or hopefully my brother will help me

Might get a sorority of bettas next time just a bit wary of the girls turning on each other